All You Need to Know to Hike Tongariro Alpine Crossing

“One does not simply walk into Mordor…” – Boromir, LOTR. And he is right! This is a guide to all you need to know to hike Tongariro Crossing (now Tongariro Alpine Crossing) to have a great and safe time.

What is Tongariro Alpine Crossing?

Known as the best day hike in New Zealand and the top 10 in the world, Tongariro Crossing is a scenic 19.4 km hike through three active volcanoes on the North Island of New Zealand. It is also famous because it is the Lord of the Rings Mordor and Mount Doom filming location.

The Tongariro National Park land is a spiritual and cultural landmark to the Maori, which includes the Tongariro Crossing.

Obviously, it sounds fantastic, and everyone would like to do it. However, with its extreme weather and terrain, you have to prepare before you attempt the crossing.

My Experience Hiking Tongariro Alpine Crossing

It was the most beautiful hike I’ve ever done. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking (when the weather permits), and I felt like I was on a different planet. The weather was ideal, with comfortable temperatures all day. The hike was also less difficult than I thought, but that is subjective to individual fitness levels. I was also over-prepared—I didn’t finish one water bottle (I brought two) and ate 1/4 of my snacks. However, it’s better to be over-prepared than under.

I felt rushed to complete the hike, however. But more on that is below.

Track Information

IMPORTANT PREREQUISITE: you must be at a reasonable fitness level (moderate to fit) to attempt this hike.

Here is a map of the entire crossing and its elevation directly from the official website.

Length: The crossing is a one-way 19.4 km (12 miles) hike that takes 5–8 hours depending on your fitness level (regardless, allow a full day for this hike—you will be tired).

Difficulty Level: Moderate – Difficult (depending on your fitness level)

Start: Mangatepōpō Road end

End: Ketetahi Road end. You could start from Ketetahi, but it is much harder (an extra 300m ascend) and not recommended.

Weather: The weather changes very fast and dramatically. It can be sunny one minute and foggy the other.

Toilets: There are toilets at the start, finish, and every 1-1.5 hours on the crossing. Bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer!

Rubbish: There are no trash bins along the crossing, so pack all your litter and bring it with you.

Getting to Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The best way to get to the start of the track is by shuttle, either from your accommodation or from Ketetahi car park, which runs roughly from 5 AM – 5 PM daily, varying by the shuttle bus company.

If you drive, you can park your car at the Ketetahi Car Park and book a shuttle to take you from Ketetahi to the start of the hike. It costs $45 per person for the car park and shuttle. Driving to the track is not recommended as there is a 4-hour limit at Mangatepōpō Car Park.

If going entirely by shuttle, you must arrange shuttle transport to and from your accommodation, available for all these areas:

• Tongariro National Park
• Turangi
• Ohakune
• Whakapapa
• Taupo

I used the company Tongariro Expeditions which was booked by the tour I was on of the North Island. Make sure to book shuttle transport ahead of time. Tongariro Expeditions have shuttle options available from the Ketetahi Car Park to the start and to and from nearby cities.

Consider This

However, if you want to take your time on this hike or think you may go slow, driving, parking, and shuttling to the start is the best option. Using shuttles to get to and from Tongariro Alpine Crossing is convenient, but the downside is that you run on their time. Most companies allow 7-7.5 hours for hikers to finish. While that sounds like a lot of time, that time is enough if you constantly walk and not take long breaks.

I personally felt a bit rushed in the latter half of the hike because of the time allotted to make it for the return shuttle. Shuttles might be your only option for solo travelers or those without a car, so this is something to keep in mind.

To beat this, many people complete the first part of the hike (Mangatepopo to South Crater) fast to give themselves more time to enjoy the rest. However, if you take a shuttle both ways, you will inevitably feel rushed in a portion of your hike, whether at the beginning or end. Another disadvantage is that even though the shuttle buses say they will arrive at a specific time, depending on how many people they are shuttling around, even if you get to the end on time, you might end up waiting half an hour to an hour for the shuttle to come around.

What to Bring

• 2 liters of water
  • I would recommend less during the cooler seasons; I didn’t drink most of the water I brought, but definitely good when it’s forecasted to be hot. There is no drinkable water along the crossing.
• enough food that will last a full day of hiking (i.e. protein bars and nuts or sandwiches)
  • some people recommend bringing a small lunch, but I prefer light snacking as opposed to a meal
• sunscreen
• hat
• toilet paper or tissue (only the toilet at Ketetahi Road end has toilet paper)
• hand sanitizer
• a light, sturdy backpack

What to Wear (Hint: Layers)

• comfortable shoes with grip (ie. running shoes are fine, hiking boots are not a necessity)
• windbreaker (you’ll want something to shield you from the wind)
• one thermal long sleeve (great for layering and keeping warm)
• leggings or comfortable trousers
• over the ankle socks (keeps the loose volcanic soil out of your shoes)
• tank top or short-sleeve top to layer under thermal

And What to Expect When Hiking

If you booked all your transport with a shuttle, they’d most likely give you a map of the crossing with all the necessary information. Here’s what to expect as you hike the crossing:

Outline of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

1. Shuttle to Mangatepōpō
2. Mangatepōpō to Soda Springs: Super Easy Walk, very scenic and flat. Enjoy it while it lasts!
3. 4th Bathroom to South Crater: Immediately after you pass Soda Springs and the 4th bathroom, the ascent to South Crater starts.
   • Use the bathroom now! There won’t be one until after you get to Blue Lake. Infamously called the “Devil’s Staircase,” it’s the most difficult part of the hike.
4. South Crater to Red Crater Ridge base: breathe! Another flat, easy walk after a strenuous hike up. The crater is very expansive and wide.
   • If you need to turn around, this is your last opportunity. If you continue and can’t finish, you’ll have to get a helicopter to get you ($$$).
5. Red Crater Ridge to Red Crater Summit: This is the steepest ascent of the crossing, and there is a big drop on both sides of the trail. On a nice day, it’s a nice climb up, but on windy days, you may find yourself crawling to the top to prevent getting knocked off the trail.
6. Red Crater Summit to Emerald Lakes: You reached the trail’s highest point! Then, make a steep descent down to the Emerald Lakes. This part of the trail is covered in loose gravel and entirely downhill; many slide step down the mountain as it is impossible to walk down as if it were sturdy ground.
7. Emerald Lakes to Blue Lake: An easy flat walk and a mini ascent to a tranquil lake. You’re halfway there!
8. Blue Lake to Ketetahi Shelter: Here starts the descent down to the finish line! But be warned, it is a long way down.
9. Ketetahi Shelter to Ketetahi Road End: This is mentally the most tedious part of the hike in my opinion. There is a beautiful lake across from the shelter that (on a good day) reflects the sky, much like a mirror. The last stretch of the crossing is in the forest.
10. Shuttle out of Ketetahi

Shuttle to Mangatepopo Road End

Estimated Time: Varies from where you are coming from; it was 1-1.5 hours from Taupo

The calm. It was a very tranquil ride; I love the peace of the early morning before everything wakes up. I got picked up from my accommodation at Haka Lodge Taupo at 5:15 AM SHARP. It was about an hour and a half ride to the start of the crossing. Everyone basically falls asleep, getting the last bit of shut-eye before hiking.

Mangatepopo to Soda Springs

Estimated Time: 1 hour

Difficulty: Easy

The shuttle drops you off right at the start of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. There is a bathroom here, but most people skip this one to get on the trail ASAP, as there are 2 more bathrooms during this first hour. This part of the walk, in my opinion, is incredibly scenic and you really feel like you are on a different planet. The landscape is entirely nature, with impressive rocks and foliage. Soak it all in! This is the calm before the storm. You see the magnificent Mt. Ngauruhoe aka Mount Doom from LOTR.

After the boardwalk, you’ll pass by Soda Springs. You can take a detour to this site, but most people don’t do it since you have a clear view from the trail. After Soda Springs, you’ll hit the 4th bathroom of the trail and the last one you’ll see for a while. Use it now or forever hold your pee(ace).

4th Bathroom to South Crater

Estimated Time: 1 hour

Difficulty: Difficult

This is where the difficult ascent begins. It’s not called the “Devil’s Staircase” for no reason! It wasn’t as tough as I thought, but it was still a strenuous part of the hike. I had to break up the ascent in sections to make it more manageable, but it allows you to appreciate the view! Thankfully, there are actual steps to go up the mountain. These disappear later on.

South Crater to Red Crater Ridge base

Estimated Time: 15 min

Difficulty: Easy

Relief! Savor the sweet, flat walk to the base of Red Crater before you have to ascend again. This crater is so large and expansive. You feel like you are crossing a huge desert (minus the heat).

Red Crater Ridge base to Red Crater Summit

Estimated Time: 30 min

Difficulty: Moderate – Difficult

Here you will be met with loose gravel terrain and a big drop on one side of the trail, and, unfortunately, no stairs. Once you make it to the ridge, take in the view! The Red Crater is massive.

As you climb to the summit, you will have drops on both sides of the trail. On a day with good weather, it’s a pretty mild climb with sweeping views of the valley. However, on a windy day, it can be quite scary to trek, and most people opt to crawl instead not to get pushed off the mountain. Take that picture on that summit and savor all the work you did to get there.

Red Crater Summit to Emerald Lakes

Estimated Time: 15-30 min

Difficulty: Moderate

Now, starts the descent. From here on out, it is all downhill (literally). The path is made of very loose gravel, and you must practice sliding while you step. A slide-and-step technique is effective in getting down the mountain, as the gravel is not sturdy enough to support a regular footstep. You can also sit and slide, but this will ruin the bottom of your pants. There is a ledge halfway down the mountain where you can get a photo opportunity with the stunning Emerald Lakes below.

Emerald Lakes to Blue Lake

Estimated Time: 15 min

Difficulty: Easy

This section goes by quickly, with a flat and mini ascent to Blue Lake, which is the halfway point of the crossing. Prepare yourself mentally for a long descent down.

Blue Lake to Ketetahi Shelter

Estimated Time: 1 hour

Difficulty: Easy

Don’t be fooled! While it may seem like you are making your way to the finish line, this is just the beginning of the way back. It’s a long way down. This is a mild, not-too-steep descent to the shelter. The ground here is loose and unstable and is a bit damaged from the harsh weather Auckland experienced earlier this year. Be careful and watch your step! It is relatively easy to sprain an ankle here. On a good day, you’ll get a stunning view of Lake Rotoaira.

Ketetahi Shelter to Ketetahi Road End

Estimated Time: 2 hours

Difficulty: Easy but tedious

I had no idea the last leg of the walk was in the forest! While easy in difficulty, the path is entirely downhill, which tired my legs out more than I thought. You are constantly bracing your body weight as you descend the crossing, so take extra care to place your feet firmly into the ground to prevent sprained ankles. At this point, I was getting tired and ready to make it to the end. The end comes shortly after you see the 19 km sign!

Shuttle out of Ketetahi Road End

Estimated Time: Varies where you are being dropped off (or if you drive)

Difficulty: zzz

Andddddd the sweet, sweet taste of victory (and sleep).

I finished half an hour before the shuttle was supposed to come but ended up waiting about an hour and a half for the shuttle to come.

Helpful Tips

• Cut your toenails the night before—save yourself painful toe jams!
• Carbo-load the dinner before for extra energy the next morning.
• If you want to take your time on this hike, consider driving and parking in Ketetahi Car Park and taking the shuttle to the start. While shuttles are convenient, they run on a strict schedule and allow 7-7.5 hours max to complete the track.
• Start the hike early, like 6 AM early. The best weather is in the morning!
• Wear layers, and ensure the last layer is wind and waterproof.
• Respect the rules. The mountains are sacred, and it’s offensive to leave rubbish, touch the lake water, climb to the summits, and use the loo in nature. Drones are not allowed, either.

Other Things to Do in North Island

The North Island of New Zealand has so many amazing things to do and experience. Tongariro National Park is right near Taupo, which is perfect for water activities and boat tours on Lake Taupo. Check out the Waitomo Glow worms in Waitomo Valley or find a cool kayak trip to hidden glowworm caves. You can’t stop in North Island without stopping by Auckland, and make that your home base while you explore the north part of the island. Check out North Island hidden gems like Tiritiri Matangi, Lake Tarawera, and more.

Good Luck, and Have Fun!

Hopefully, my experience gave you insight into how to prepare and what to expect when hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It’s a beautiful hike worth the preparation for and was the highlight of my trip to the North Island. As Boromir says, “One does not simply walk into Mordor…” so prepare well and have a great hike!